We’re on our way to tackle Mount Rinjani, Indonesia’s second highest volcano. Now, let’s set the record straight—we’re not aiming for the summit. The Crater Rim is our goal, and let’s be honest, we’re not exactly superheroes. But that doesn’t mean we aren’t in for an adventure. From the lush rainforests to the rugged paths, we’re ready to take on the challenge—one step at a time. 

Driving from Lombok airport, we’re greeted by dusty roads, chickens scratching in the dirt, and barefoot children with bright, curious smiles playing in the rain as we pass by. As we approach the main town, the scenery shifts — traffic picks up, and the roads fill with scooters carrying young couples and entire families. Toddlers and infants squeeze between their parents, while small trucks, crammed with people of all ages from grandparents to children, all wearing powder blue hijabs, headbands, t-shirts, rattle by. In one flatbed truck, a group of young men hang off the sides with enormous speakers blasting the same song on loop. They’re all heading to a political rally for the upcoming elections — a turnout that would have made Trump proud.

After a four hour drive, we finally arrive at Rinjani Lodge, nestled at the foot of Mount Rinjani. The resort is set in the town of Senaru, surrounded by lush gardens filled with hibiscus, frangipani, and an array of exotic plants. Two infinity pools overlook breathtaking views of the ocean, mountains, and rainforest below. Our room, conveniently located near one of these pools, has a large porch with comfy chairs and a spacious daybed where we kick off our shoes, sip on a refreshing welcome drink, and prepare to explore our home for the next two nights.

The room itself is a charming mix of Balinese shabby chic, featuring a king-sized bed, ample wardrobe space, a coffee maker, fridge, and a large desk — perfect for any digital nomad looking for a peaceful escape. The private, enclosed outdoor bathroom only adds to the appeal, with a deep bathtub, rain shower, and a lush native garden that feels like an extension of the surrounding nature.

Wandering through the resort, we discover tranquil garden paths leading to swinging couches where we relax and take in the views. Little doorways open onto walkways with stunning vistas over the rainforest, while paths meander past serene ponds, home to curious little frogs. We make our way to the resort restaurant to sample the delicious local cuisine, and among the many amazing dishes, the beef rendang shines — exceptionally tender and packed with flavour.

As the day unfolds, we get a firsthand experience of Lombok’s wet season. We start by lounging by the pool, soaking up the sun, feeling our skin warm and tighten under its rays. But soon, the sky begins to change as clouds gather, accompanied by distant rumbles of thunder and the occasional flash of lightning. In just a few minutes, the storm builds to a dramatic crescendo, and we’re eventually chased indoors when the rain pours down in sheets. We can’t help but laugh, thinking how much Lombok’s weather reminds us of Melbourne — the way it shifts so quickly is strikingly familiar.

Close by are two waterfalls to explore – Tui Kelep and Sendang Gile, which are just a few minutes walk up the road. With a small entry fee, it is only a 5-10 walk down through the rainforest to a peaceful little clearing where one lone lady has set up her wares of drinks and snacks, hopeful of an onslaught of tourists. We follow the path back and take a walk over and past the quick flowing water and turn down the opportunity of hiring an inner tube to float back downstream to instead meander further along the path to enjoy the peaceful burbling of the stream and watching a troop of monkeys playfully frolicking in the trees.

We’re up early the next morning, and after a filling breakfast of omelette and fresh fruit we are ushered into the back of a truck to join our porters and all the equipment they will be carrying for us for the next couple of days. Its a bumpy ride up to the Pintu Senaru where we are to start off after our guide Odi registers us for the hike. Our porters hoist the baskets on poles that contain our tents, water and food. We have sneakily tried to lift them ourselves but have been barely able to raise them a couple of inches off the ground, let alone get them to shoulder height! The camelpak that I filled with water and added to my backpack with my thermals and jacket seems almost weightless in comparison.

Our porters set off before us, they bound upwards like gazelles in their flip flops and before long are well out of sight. We set off after them into the rainforest, going at a pace more leisurely (think of us more like the tortoises to the porters’ hares) and the path is initially easy, but as we climb, it gets steeper and more challenging with tree roots and muddy sections. By the 750 metre mark the trail has become rockier, and the forest has opened up slightly. Another 750 metres along we reach the flat, peaceful area known as Pos 2 to rest. A camp table and chairs await, which we thankfully sink into while our porters rustle up a lunch of fried chicken and stir-fried vegetables, washed down with ginger tea and finished with a huge platter of fresh fruit. It’s far more than we can finish, but the troop of monkeys nearby looks eager to help with the leftovers, eyeing us like alleyway scavengers waiting for a handout.

We notice clouds beginning to roll in obscuring our view of the mountain so reluctantly heave our packs back on and begin the second half off our trek. The clouds appear to become denser and soon we don the plastic ponchos Odi supplies as the rain begins to fall. Our feet seem to become heavier, our progress seems to slow to a snail’s pace, each time we look up the path appears steeper and more rugged. Indeed, the final push to the Crater Rim sees us at times on our hands and knees scrabbling upwards over rocks, loose gravel and scree.

Finally through the alpine scrub and grass we spot a number of colourful tents perched on the side of the rocks and crest the rim, but alas cloud has beaten us and obscured any views we were anticipating.  We change into our warmer clothes as the temperature has definitely dipped, and as we sit down to deep fried banana covered in chocolate and parmesan cheese (now my new favourite dessert) the clouds part and lift to give us spectacular views of Segara Anak Lake below, with the smaller Gunung Baru volcano in the lake sending up small plumes of smoke, and the majestic summit of Mt Rinjani rising behind. 

All through our dinner of a green curry that would not be amiss at any restaurant, more and more hikers and their porters arrive, some from the lake below who have spent the day enjoying soaking in the hot springs of the caldera – the overachievers who have been up since 2am scrambling to the summit of Mt Rinjani to catch the sunrise, and yet others whom have followed in our footsteps, just with a later departure. Soon the side of crater rim is covered in brightly coloured tents and the sound of many different languages can be heard bouncing off the rocks.

Sunrise sees us all at the highest point of our campsite, with even more hikers who have walked overnight to see the sunrise with us. Again, the views over the caldera are spectacular – awash with orange and apricot colours but we can also see back towards Bali and the three Gili islands.

As the great Isaac Newton said ‘what goes up must come down’ and so we begin our descent back to Senaru. Though not as relentless as the ascent the day before, the continual jarring descent does become taxing on the knees and the rain has proven to make the track quite slippery in spots and we find ourselves rolling our ankles and sliding onto our bottoms on more than one occasion. 

As we reach the base of the mountain, exhausted yet exhilarated, we feel a real sense of accomplishment. The journey up Mount Rinjani is not just a physical challenge, but an unforgettable adventure.  From the lush rainforests to the stunning Crater Rim views, every step was worth the effort.  

(The author climbed Mount Rinjani in November 2024 with Rinjani Hero, booked with GetYourGuide).